Patagonia 2025
So, we asked – what will be our next adventure? Moon and Chu (our great traveling buddies) wanted to see Patagonia and they picked out the Odyssey’s Patagonia Frontiers tour. We said “What the heck! Sounds like a great opportunity.” But at the last minute Moon needed to attend to some serious medical issues and they had to cancel. We went anyway and are REALLY happy we did!!
The participant group was unique as we became much more like a family. There were 18 participants and we all mingled together. It was really special! On the last night of the trip, we were asked what was the best part for each of us – and sure, seeing the Puma was a highlight, but I think the development of this new family (with our much younger than us mother) might be a better highlight.
Overview: We flew from SFO to Buenos Aires. Then on the local Argentina Airlines to Iguazu Falls with a full day tour of the fantastic falls. We flew back for the “official” start of the trek in Buenos Aires, traveled down to the bottom of the world to Ushuaia and Cruising on the Australis Ship. Then a drive to Patagonia Torres del Paine Park, flight back up to Santiago, then flights home. This was a total of 16 days of adventuring including 5 days of travel.
The first hurdle – packing! While United Airlines allows 50 pounds of checked in and two carry-on bags, domestic flights on Argentina Airlines limits weight to 33 pounds and two small carry-ons. We were going from 90°F and humid in Buenos Aires to 35°F on the glacier tours in a Cape Horn. We needed more clothing and shoes. It’s sooo hard to limit. But we made it (sort of). The carry-on contained Jerry’s cameras so they were heavy and we wore layers of clothing and heaviest shoes to make the checked luggage weight. It was a kind of silly having with a puffy coat going through Buenos Aires. We exceeded the limit on carry-on, but luckily nobody checked.
The Trip
Any trip has the guidance of a tour director. We had the best tour director in the world. Lucelia Scarpelli “Lu” (Not “Lou” or “Loo”). She handled so many things behind the scenes and was able to give us just the right amount of information and clear directions. It was so good! I appreciate someone who presents information in a concise / easy to understand way. Not only that – she really cared about us and wanted us to love her country. As a result, we all worshipped her.
The following is a description of our trip with photos. If you JUST want the photos you can go to: https://jerrypierce.org/photos/
Tom Bardauskas shared his top pictures (go here to see them)
Below is Part I of the trip. Go HERE to get the rest of the story and even more pictures!!
Iguazu Waterfalls
The highlight was the “devil’s throat” falls.
In case you didn’t know, South America is a very long trek from California. San Francisco to Houston to Buenos Aires, five hours in Buenos Aires, then another flight north to Iguazu. The waterfalls are at the intersection of Argentina, Brazil and Paraguay. We met our Odyssey participants that did the pre-tour – Mike, Gay, Tom, Ramona, Dave and MG at the airport in BA (Buenos Aires) and finally arrived at our hotel in Iguazu. Over 30 hours in transit and a five hour time change.
Val (Valmor) was our local tour guide. A lovely man with a passion for the falls and his country.
We did a delightful for a full day tour of the falls. I think it was 1.7 cubic meter per second (400K gallons/second) on average comes across the flat approach to a narrow gorge made up of volcanic rock and a 100 to 200 meter drop. (Up to 3.4M gallons/second).
We did three walking tracks to get a good up close view AND we got to ride the little train. So exciting. Later, we learned that another of our Odyssey group did a private tour and took the boat below the falls. Barbara was a bit envious!
This could be them!
Everyone want their picture. This is Dave and MG of our group.
We stayed at the Loi Suites Iguazú Hotel. A very nice place about 10 miles from the Falls. The swimming pools were a tad chilly, but nice for real swimming and the setting was amazing.
We begin with seeing animals – birds in particular. Fun birds. It was a Good thing that Mike is a great spotter of birds and wildlife!
Lapwing (?)
The claim was there are three top waterfalls in the world – Niagara Falls, Victoria Falls in Africa and the Iguazu Falls. We agree, having seen all three.
Black Vulture (?)
Some sort of vulture was flying around in large numbers.
There are something like 150 named falls. I think about 10 of them are pretty good size and are consistent (ie. some only appear at high water flows).
The biggest fall is the Devil’s Throat (Garganta del Diablo in Spanish or Garganta do Diabo in Portuguese). The Devil’s Throat canyon is 80–90 m (260–300 ft) wide and 70–80 m (230–260 ft) deep. Left of this canyon, another part of the river forms 160–200 individual falls, which merge into a single front during the flood stage. The largest falls are named San Martín, Adam and Eva, Penoni, and Bergano.
The real highlight was the South American Coati (Nasua nasua) a cross between a raccoon and an opossums. Coatis are members of the raccoon family (Procyonidae) and are known for their raccoon-like appearance. They are not endangered in any way, there are so many, so cute and have no fear of humans. We also briefly saw a monkey and lots of birds.
On the smaller side are dragonflies and spiders. We also saw some hugh catfish.
To get to the biggest section (The Devil’s Throat) we need to take a narrow gauge ‘train’ about 2 miles and walk another 1/2 mile to get to the falls. We were not alone and this was not a busy day. There are well maintained walkways, that in high flows sometimes get washed away.
Devils’ Falls looking down from above.
Devils’ Falls Looking up.
Buenos Aires
On Friday February 21 (Day 3) we headed back to Buenos Aires. Took the local Aerolineas Airlines (again the 33 pound limit) and arrived at the local airport. We again met Victoria (Vic) our local tour guide (she met us when we transitioned on way to Iguazu Falls from 1 airport to the other airport).
We went out for a brief walk and lunch near the hotel. We found we will never starve here. Then walked around the park to view a monument to those lost in the Falkland war and to Plaza San Martin. The Falkland (PLEASE call it the Malvinas Islands) war is still very sensitive for Argentineans.
That evening we meet Lu, our delightful tour director (frequently our guide and general knowledge source!). Of the many good suggestions she made, the one that we all violated (in private) was talking Politics and marginally keeping track of what was happening in the world at home.
We went to a “Welcome Dinner” at a local steak house. This is the way you cook lamb (and other things?)
Presidential Office building
Saturday February 22 (Day 4) Off to tour Buenos Aires (BA) by bus and by foot. Note to self: I much prefer to walk around than to be driven around and told to look out the windows.
A monument for those lost to Covid. One stone per person. It was a reaction to the very slow and incompetent response by the government to the crisis with vaccines not being available. It was very moving. As was the monuments to the mothers who lost children/family members (los desparicidos) during the political regime.
The church on the square.
San Martin is buried here and they have guards next to the tomb. Every 2 hours the changing of the guard. Timing is everything and we were present for when they changed.
On to the La Boca section of town. So much fun! This “poorer” section of town grew up next to the river/port. They used left-over building supplies the ships left behind – like left over paint of any random color and metal from shipping containers to create housing. The immitgrants embraced it and celebrate it with art and tango. It’s now a tourist destination and certainly not a poor neighborhood any more.
We returned to downtown and went to the Ricoletta district with the really fancy cemetery for the wealthy, or famous or political people . There’s money in this town! And art. We love the way they help the trees to grow horizontal to the ground!
Vicky our guide (the one in front;)
Every grave has a story. Angels sending the dead to heaven, story of a lost daughter and her dog… Eva Peron’s grave too!
In walking around, we saw these models getting their picture taken.
We went to see a tango show and dinner. You need to be an athlete to dance here. By the way, tango is a noun, not a verb. It’s not “it takes two to tango” it should be “it takes two to dance the tango.”
On our own the next day (Sunday) we went to the Opera House for a tour, then walked to an antique market to see the same old junk we have here at home. (That’s Jerry’s perception – Barbara thought it was wonderful!)
The Opera House is so pretty. The best part: learning the history of “Break a Leg” and “Triple Shit”! If you’re curious look it up or ask Barbara!
The top of the Hotel Emperador Buenos Aires had fantastic views. We wish we had found it earlier in our stay.
We had dinner on our own at an Italian restaurant (where one of the waiters was from Hoboken N.J.!), then had an early wake up for a 6 AM departure for the airport. We successfully passed the airport’s 33 pound weight bar and were off to a cold new world.
Ushuaia
We were only in Ushuaia for a few hours, but we covered a lot of land / information. What a delight! A town of about 100K in Argentina and heavily supported by the government to have a population in this Patagonia region. They have electronic manufacturing in the region!
The official “end of the road.” As far south as it goes, Alaska is the other end.
Australis Ship
The Ventus Australis ship would be our home for four nights. We were in cabin 318 – middle level. TINY shower, but a big window on the starboard side. I would guess they had 110 guests and our group of 20 was the biggest organized group. Many small groups or couples booked on their own.
We are off the dock to spend the first night on the way to Cape Horn – the southern-most point in South America (and closer than any other point on the planet to Antarctica).
The rhythm of the ship is Breakfast at 8am (early coffee at 7am), then some event at 9 or 10am. We meet up with our lifejackets ready to get on the Zodiacs for transfer to the shore or just a cruise in the Zodiac. Back for hot chocolate and whiskey. Lunch at 1pm. Another event in the afternoon, then dinner at 8pm. Sometimes presentations by the naturalists.
Style setters – Rodger and Tammy
Our first day out – Wednesday February 26 Day 8 – we planned to go first to Cape Horn, but weather indicated that it might be better in the afternoon, so we flipped the schedule and went to walk on Wulaia – near the first radio station location in the area.
Barbara and Mike
We split into three groups – Coastal walk, Intermediate and Summit. Barbara did the intermediate, Jerry the Summit. Both fairly easy hikes and both gave some good views.
Tom and Ramona
After the hike and on the way to Cape Horn, we got a tour of the Bridge. Most interesting to me was they are still using paper maps for detail navigation. The justification was that the electronic ones have not been created for these regions with enough accuracy, so paper is better. They have all the GPS equipment, but paper works. And yes, another (yawn) beautiful rainbow.
Cape Horn
The weather was fine!! Yea!! We went to shore on Cape Horn. 180-ish steps to get to the top. So windy!
Monument at the top is a “Useless Gull.” Well, that’s what Lu calls them and I agree.
Back to the ship for dinner. On the first deck at the stern of the ship. Oscar and Fabian were great servers – and fun to be around, answering all questions about the food, translations and figuring out gluten free and lactose low options!
Lu, Barbara, Ramona, Tom, Jerry and MG.
Oscar and Fabian
And off to see glaciers and penguins and seals and whales. Traveling up the Magellan straight. It is so clear, how hard it is to find this navigational channel.
Not exactly sure where we went, but this is sort of the route.
Glaciers
Off to see our first glaciers. First was the Pia Glacier – was supposed to be the most active of the four we would see. Very little action on this one. But it was interesting being this close and enjoying the experience of land based observation. The glacier is located at coordinates 54°46’17.688” S, 69°35’56.916” W is the Pía Glacier. It is situated in the Darwin Range of the Chilean Patagonia Andes and flows into the Pía Fjord, which is part of the Beagle Channel.
Angeles was with us for many of the events on ship. A font of knowledge and great sense of humor, working on her doctorate!
In the afternoon we took a Zodiac ride to see the Morgan glacier. Less active, but we did experience some calving.
On the way back to the ship we got buzzed by a Condor.
Back to the ship and we got ear protection and a quick tour of the engine room. Both to power the ship and all the electricity on board. Big engines.
Emily (M) rocks the hat
The little seals hunted in packs and jumped out of the water.
Sunrise from the ship
We did see a whale. Not much of a picture, but she had things to do, places to go.
Overnight we had a bathroom relocation program going on. Major rock and rolling of the ship. That’s what happens when you get close to the Pacific.
The next morning February 27 Day 9 we went to another Glacier. I think it was the Aguila (Eagle) Glacier. A delightful walk to get closer.
Arriving on shore with a ramp!!
Fun berries (Chaura) that look like little apples. Many of us tried them (and didn’t die). Others (me) didn’t try them.
In the afternoon we went out for Zodiac only tours. No landing. We went to the Condor Glacier. I think this was my favorite of the ones we visited, but mainly due to the lighting – we had direct sunlight on the glacier. And lots of Cormorants.
Imperial Shag
Magellanic Cormorant
We had our farewell dinner and goodbye to the ship team and our folks. Including Orlando our cabin caregiver. The next morning we sailed to Island Magdalena where there were just a few Penguins…
Penguins
Early on Friday February 28 (Day 10) we gathered to go to Magdalena Island. We went early since they can have wind issues, so earlier is better. We did the Zodiac cha-cha-cha (we are getting good at it) and arrived at the walkway. There are both penguins and “useless gulls” all over the island.
And on the other side of the island they were holding a convention
Interesting is the sound they make. Below is a video with the audio. It was breezy so sound quality is marginal, but you can hear them bellow.
That’s the end of Part I of the trip. Go HERE to get the rest of the story and even more pictures!!
If you JUST want the photos you can go to: https://jerrypierce.org/photos/